A Travelling Sprout

A Sprout Samples the Sweet Life in Venice

By Shelley Banks

I’ve never seen the film La Dolce Vita, but I know it translates as “the sweet life.” It describes a way of life that is easy going, enjoying things to the fullest. After a few days in Venice, exploring the canals and palaces, the art, the architecture, and chatting to the locals, we concluded that Venetians enjoy “the sweet life”.

After stepping off the fourth and final train of our journey from Riomaggiore to Venice, we found ourselves outside the station, ready to begin the next adventure. Eager to avoid dragging our suitcases too far over the city’s iconic bridges and cobblestone streets, we set out to locate a vaporetto that would drop us as close as possible to our accommodation. Navigating the ticket machine proved a little tricky at first, but everything became much simpler once we discovered the “English” button. Although, once we boarded, no one bothered to check our tickets. In hindsight, perhaps we should have paid more attention to the locals, many of whom seemed to simply hop on without paying.

Rialto Bridge in Venice with tourists walking across and a gondolier steering a gondola on the canal below

People walking and standing on the Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal in Venice with a boat docked in the foreground

Our hotel was located on the far side of St Mark’s Square, which meant that after we disembarked, we not only had to weave our way through bustling crowds but also navigate our way past the hundreds of pigeons that call the square home. The square was alive with tourists and birds alike, creating a lively and somewhat chaotic introduction to this iconic part of Venice.

Aerial view of Venice city with red-roofed buildings, Museo Correr, and the waterfront in the background

St. Mark's Basilica with detailed mosaics and sculptures in a historic square with birds and people.

After a long day spent travelling, our priorities were simple: a hot shower, a hearty meal, and an early night. Once we’d unpacked the essentials for our stay and taken some time to freshen up, we ventured out in search of dinner. We soon discovered a charming little restaurant nestled beside a canal, where we enjoyed a delicious prawn risotto. As we dined, gondolas glided past, adding to the unmistakable Venetian atmosphere on our first evening in the city.

Nighttime view of a canal-side building with illuminated windows, lit street lamps, and outdoor seating areas reflected in the water

Evening view of gondolas and a vaporetto on a busy canal in Venice with illuminated historic buildings along the water

The next morning, feeling well-rested after a fantastic night’s sleep, we made our way to the breakfast buffet at our hotel. In keeping with our experiences elsewhere in Europe, the coffee left much to be desired. The mimosas on the other hand, were delicious.

The plan for the day was a trip to Burano and Murano islands.

Catching the vaporetto across to Burano was a treat in itself, allowing us to see Venice from a different perspective, until the island came into view. It felt almost surreal, with each building painted in vibrant hues, creating a patchwork of pinks, blues, greens and yellows. We wandered the narrow streets, snapping photos of the lace shops and conversing with locals who proudly shared stories about Burano’s long tradition of lacemaking. The atmosphere was laid-back and friendly, making it easy to lose track of time as we explored.

Colorful houses with red tiled roofs along a canal with boats docked in front

Colorful houses along a canal with small boats moored at the dock under a clear sky

From Burano, we hopped back on the vaporetto and made our way to Murano, renowned for its centuries-old tradition of glassmaking. As soon as we arrived, the air seemed to shimmer with creativity – every shop window was filled with stunning glass sculptures, intricate vases, and colourful jewellery. We watched a demonstration at one of the glass factories, mesmerised as the artisans deftly shaped molten glass into delicate works of art. As beautiful as the pieces were, there was nothing we could carry in our suitcases that would arrive home in one piece.

Man shaping molten glass in a workshop with a furnace and tools

Molten glass being shaped at the opening of a furnace during glassblowing

That evening, we decided to splurge on a classic Venetian experience—a gondola ride. Gliding through the canals under the stars, the city took on a magical quality; golden light spilled from windows and the gentle lapping of water echoed between centuries-old buildings. Our gondolier pointed out tucked-away landmarks and sang softly, making the adventure feel both intimate and timeless. The quiet beauty of Venice at night, with its reflections and shadows, was unforgettable and left us feeling as if we were part of the city.

Couple sitting on a decorated gondola in a canal at night, smiling at the camera

Smiling older couple taking a selfie with a young man leaning over a decorative ornate chair with initials in an outdoor evening setting

After breakfast, we set off towards St Mark’s Basilica for a morning tour. The queue outside was already forming, but stepping inside was well worth the wait—gold mosaics glittered overhead depicting Bible stories, and under our feet, intricate marble floors, both of which were breathtaking. We wandered through the basilica, marvelling at its opulent altars and centuries-old artefacts, feeling as though we’d been transported back in time. Construction of the present structure began around 1063, and the basilica is dedicated to, and holds the relics of, Saint Mark the Evangelist, the patron saint of the city.

Detailed exterior facade and domes of a historic ornate cathedral with statues and arches

Mosaic ceiling with biblical scenes and saints framed by intricate gold and floral patterns above a marble column

After leaving St Mark’s Basilica, we made our way to the Doge’s Palace. The Doge was the oldest and highest political position in the Venetian Republic. The palace was originally built in 810, then rebuilt in 1340 and became a museum in 1923.

The grand façade and intricate stonework hinted at the wealth and power that once flowed through its halls. Inside, we wandered the lavish rooms, admiring gilded ceilings and sprawling frescoes, ornate chambers and impressive artwork, all of which offered a glimpse into the city’s history and the lives of its rulers. We paused at the Bridge of Sighs, which connects the New Prison (Prigioni Nuove) to the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace. The view from the Bridge of Sighs was the last view of Venice that convicts saw before their imprisonment.

Ornate facade of a historic building with arched windows and detailed sculptures under a partly cloudy sky

Stone staircase leading to an ornate building entrance with statues and arches

A late lunch in a quaint restaurant tucked away in a small alley, let us escape from the crowds and the heat. Even though it was only 28 °C, the lack of trees combined with cobblestones that reflected the heat made it feel like 38 °C. Bigoli con l’Anatra (pasta with duck ragu), a glass of red and a quiet corner table was the perfect antidote to the hordes of tourists outside.

With a few hours left until our departure time, we had to decide if we’d had enough of the crowds, or, because we had limited time in the city, maybe we should continue and see as much as we could. Option B won out and so we left the cool of the restaurant and ventured out into the blazing sunshine. Instead of heading to another “tourist site” we decided to wander through the labyrinth of alleyways and canals, finding charming squares and local shops, as well as fewer tourists. It was a lovely way to spend our remaining time in this city built on a group of 126 islands, separated by expanses of open water and canals.

When the time came to bid farewell to Venice, our transfer to the airport came in the form of a traditional Italian timber speedboat. As we boarded, I felt like a movie star from the 1950s and I should be wearing a scarf so it could billow out behind me. It was certainly a very stylish way to pull up to the airport terminal and the only time I’ve ever arrived like that.